TIFFIN 

After a couple of days driving around Piedmont, we arrive in Liguria. We have explored the steep wine country around Canelli (and drunk some gorgeous wines with Alessandra Bera, who, along with her brother Luigi, runs Vittorio Bera e Figli—precariously positioned on a hillcrest between two steep valleys), poked around Asti and Alba, and struggled in the tide of churchgoing tourists in Turin. Either as a consequence of this breakneck itinerary, or of the lack of sleep, by the

It is seven o’clock in the morning in a small village in Piedmont, and it is darker than night in my attic bedroom. I force myself out of bed and downstairs, where grey light is just starting to probe through the windows. The hills outside are just beginning to blush in the first light. It’s been just two days since our Tiffin Club dinner in Zürich. Early the next morning we jumped in the car with Marlene and her friend Laura, and drove down to Piedmont. We are staying at the