TIFFIN 

After a couple of days driving around Piedmont, we arrive in Liguria. We have explored the steep wine country around Canelli (and drunk some gorgeous wines with Alessandra Bera, who, along with her brother Luigi, runs Vittorio Bera e Figli—precariously positioned on a hillcrest between two steep valleys), poked around Asti and Alba, and struggled in the tide of churchgoing tourists in Turin. Either as a consequence of this breakneck itinerary, or of the lack of sleep, by the